If You’ve Ever Tried and Failed at Budgeting

Marci • February 3, 2020

This article was written by Sandi Martin from Spring Personal Finance and was originally published on Spring the Blog July 21st 2015, but it was so good I wanted to share it on my blog as well!

If you've ever tried and failed at budgeting, or if you've never tried at all because it sounds so hard and boring, this post is for you. Those of you with a budgeting system that works and that you possibly even love and want to have babies with are excused for the day. Those of you who are convinced that budgeting doesn't work are kindly asked to leave the room and do a little more thinking on that subject.

Okay, now that it's just us, let me tell you a secret: I've tried (and failed) at budgeting so many times that it would be embarrassing if I sincerely thought that it was easy (it isn't) and everyone else knew how to do it (they don't). The truth is, budgeting is hard and boring. Anyone who tells you different has a book to sell.

But it's still worth doing.

Budgeting is worth doing if you have limited income and lots of commitments. It's worth doing if you spend more than you make and have been for years. It's worth doing if you're naturally frugal, if you have joint accounts, if your income is hard to predict, or if you have more money than God.

The cloud of tv shows and books and blog posts (probably even this one) that swirls around the concept of budgeting obscures its value, which is:

To know how much we have available to spend right now, given the commitments we’ve made for the immediate future
To set aside money we don’t need now for things we know or think we’ll need in the future
To base our future spending decisions on a documented (rather than estimated) past
To know if a sudden or contemplated change to our income or expenses will be sustainable over the long term, and whether we should adjust our spending before it becomes a crisis

And finding a budgeting system that works for you, whatever your circumstances, is a matter of deciding why you're budgeting in the first place...and only then deciding on a system to do it.

Starting with a system without thinking about what it has to do for you is one of the two reasons people fail at budgeting. (The other reason is that they're using too many categories, btw.)

For example: You're self-employed, with irregular income, joint expenses with your spouse, and a little bit of debt you'd like to get out from under. A particularly painful month makes it very clear that you've got to do something about your money, so you sign up for Mint. You enthusiastically set up your accounts and create a budget, logging in on your cell phone throughout the day and categorizing transactions enthusiastically...until your bank balance doesn't quite match your Mint balance, and you realize that you forgot to budget enough for food but budgeted too much for shoes, and you were sick that week so you stopped checking whether Mint was categorizing your transactions properly, and now you've finally found a good deal on an almost-new freezer that you've been looking for for months on Kijiji and are flipping between your bank account and your Mint account trying to figure out if you can afford to take out the $400 to pay for it without throwing a major wrench into the next few weeks before your clients pay you, so...you think you've failed at budgeting.

Or: You and your partner work full-time at great-paying jobs, but have limited free time to do all of the million and one things you need and/or want to do, like spend time with your kids and cook at home. Every once in a while you think "we make lots of money...shouldn't we have more to show for it?", so one day you sign up for YNAB, take a few evenings to watch the videos, and begin assigning a job to every dollar you earn. You faithfully enter your transactions for a week, but realize your partner hasn't been, and - given the punishing deadlines at work - probably won't. You know you're really supposed to enter those purchases manually, and feel kind of guilty every time you download them from the bank, and then your team starts a really exciting project, your kids finish the school year, and it's not like you can't pay off your credit card bill every month, and - besides - you make lots of money, so...you think you've failed at budgeting.

You aren't wrong to get discouraged (although in each case you could conceivably have succeeded by dint of sheer bullheadedness). You're just using a budgeting system not particularly well-suited for your circumstances. You're spending your time solving a problem of lesser significance than your real problem. You're using a rolled-up newspaper to fight off a bear, or a bazooka to get that damned chipmunk off your lawn.

Those people that we dismissed earlier? The ones who were in love with their budgeting system? They're not us. What works for someone willing to helpfully share their opinion on reddit might not work for you for any number of very legitimate reasons.

So here's what I propose: before you read another budgeting book, or test-drive another system, think about the most important problem you're trying to solve. Is it really important to know how much you can spend now, and of lesser importance that you know how you spent last month? Are you trying to plan for the future and need to know what your normal and comfortable spending patterns are, but don't have any real reason to change them?

(Some people can't even answer this question right away. If you genuinely don't know where to start, don't sweat it. You'll get there.)

I've failed at budgeting in the past. Many long years of trial and error, punctuated by brief bursts of book-inspired inspiration and longer bursts of discouragement have taught me this: the books aren't necessarily wrong, anybody can make any budget system work (eventually), and chipmunks can be scared off with bazookas, but budgeting works best if you know why you're doing it in the first place, and only then choose a tool that's appropriate for the task.

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Big News for First-Time Home Buyers: GST Relief Is Here!

By Marci Deane • May 28, 2025

Buying your first home just got a little easier — and a lot less expensive — thanks to a major new government announcement made on May 27, 2025. If you're thinking about purchasing a newly built home or condo, here's what you need to know (in plain English). What’s the Big Change? The Government of Canada is introducing a new GST rebate just for First-Time Home Buyers (FTHB) : 100% GST rebate on new homes up to $1 million A partial GST rebate for homes between $1 million and $1.5 million No rebate for homes priced $1.5 million or more 💥 Translation: You could save up to $50,000 in taxes on a new build — serious money back in your pocket! What Types of Homes Qualify? The rebate applies to: New homes or condos purchased from a builder Owner-built homes (yep, if you're building yourself!) Co-op housing units (if you're buying shares in a housing co-op) Who Qualifies as a First-Time Buyer? You’re considered a First-Time Home Buyer if: You're 18 or older A Canadian citizen or permanent resident You (or your spouse/common-law partner) haven’t owned a home in the last 4 years — anywhere in the world When Does This Start? To qualify, your purchase contract signed or construction must start on or after May 27, 2025 , and: Construction must begin before 2031 Homes must be substantially completed before 2036 Buyers with contracts signed prior to May 27, 2025 will NOT qualify Some Fine Print You Should Know There are a few limits: You can only claim this once in your lifetime If your spouse or partner already used it , you can’t You won’t qualify if the original agreement to buy was signed before May 27, 2025 (Yes, I already said that but it bears repeating!!) It must be your primary residence Why This Is a Game Changer Let’s be real — saving up for a home is hard enough , especially in today’s market. This new GST rebate is a massive win for first-time buyers and a big push to get more homes built across Canada. ✔️ Less tax ✔️ More homes ✔️ A major step toward affordable ownership 📌 Want the Full Details? You can read the full government announcement right here . Need help understanding this or to get pre-approved, I am here to help. marci@askmarci.ca

How Employment Status Impacts Your Mortgage Application

By Marci Deane • May 28, 2025

Chances are if you’re applying for a mortgage, you feel confident about the state of your current employment or your ability to find a similar position if you need to. However, your actual employment status probably means more to the lender than you might think. You see, to a lender, your employment status is a strong indicator of your employer’s commitment to your continued employment. So, regardless of how you feel about your position, it’s what can be proven on paper that matters most. Let’s walk through some of the common ways lenders can look at employment status. Permanent Employment The gold star of employment. If your employer has made you a permanent employee, it means that your position is as secure as any position can be. When a lender sees permanent status (passed probation), it gives them the confidence that you’re valuable to the company and that they can rely on your income. Probationary Period Despite the quality of your job, if you’ve only been with the company for a short while, you’ll be required to prove that you’ve passed any probationary period. Although most probationary periods are typically 3-6 months, they can be longer. You might now even be aware that you’re under probation. The lender will want to make sure that you’re not under a probationary period because your employment can be terminated without any cause while under probation. Once you’ve made it through your initial evaluation, the lender will be more confident in your employment status. Now, it’s not the length of time with the employer that the lender is scrutinizing; instead, it’s the status of your probation. So if you’ve only been with a company for one month, but you’ve been working with them as a contractor for a few years, and they’re willing to waive the probationary period based on a previous relationship, that should give the lender all the confidence they need. We’ll have to get that documented. Parental Leave Suppose you’re currently on, planning to be on, or just about to be done a parental leave, regardless of the income you’re now collecting, as long as you have an employment letter that outlines your guaranteed return to work position (and date). In that case, you can use your return to work income to qualify on your mortgage application. It’s not the parental leave that the lender has issues with; it’s the ability you have to return to the position you left. Term Contracts Term contracts are hands down the most ambiguous and misunderstood employment status as it’s usually well-qualified and educated individuals who are working excellent jobs with no documented proof of future employment. A term contract indicates that you have a start date and an end date, and you are paid a specific amount for that specified amount of time. Unfortunately, the lack of stability here is not a lot for a lender to go on when evaluating your long-term ability to repay your mortgage. So to qualify income on a term contract, you want to establish the income you’ve received for at least two years. However, sometimes lenders like to see that your contract has been renewed at least once before considering it as income towards your mortgage application. In summary If you’ve recently changed jobs or are thinking about making a career change, and qualifying for a mortgage is on the horizon, or if you have any questions at all, please connect anytime. We can work through the details together and make sure you have a plan in place. It would be a pleasure to work with you!

Is There A Difference Between A Deposit And Downpayment

By Marci Deane • May 21, 2025

If you’re new to the home buying process, it’s easy to get confused by some of the terms used. The purpose of this article is to clear up any confusion between the deposit and downpayment. What is a deposit? The deposit is the money included with a purchase contract as a sign of good faith when you offer to purchase a property. It’s the “consideration” that helps make up the contract and binds you to the agreement. Typically, you include a certified cheque or a bank draft that your real estate brokerage holds while negotiations are finalized when you offer to purchase a property. If your offer is accepted, your deposit is held in your Realtor’s trust account. If your offer is accepted and you commit to buying the property, your deposit is transferred to the lawyer’s trust account and included in your downpayment. If you aren’t able to reach an agreement, the deposit is refunded to you. However, if you commit to buying the property and don’t complete the transaction, your deposit could be forfeit to the seller. Your deposit goes ahead of the downpayment but makes up part of the downpayment. The amount you put forward as a deposit when negotiating the terms of a purchase contract is arbitrary, meaning there is no predefined or standard amount. Instead, it’s best to discuss this with your real estate professional as your deposit can be a negotiating factor in and of itself. A larger deposit may give you a better chance of having your offer accepted in a competitive situation. It also puts you on the hook for more if something changes down the line and you cannot complete the purchase. What is a downpayment? Your downpayment refers to the initial payment you make when buying a property through mortgage financing. In Canada, the minimum downpayment amount is 5%, as lenders can only lend up to 95% of the property’s value. Securing mortgage financing with anything less than 20% down is only made possible through mortgage default insurance. You can source your downpayment from your resources, the sale of a property, an RRSP, a gift from a family member, or borrowed funds. Example scenario Let’s say that you are looking to purchase a property worth $400k. You’re planning on making a downpayment of 10% or $40k. When you make the initial offer to buy the property, you put forward $10k as a deposit your real estate brokerage holds in their trust account. If everything checks out with the home inspection and you’re satisfied with financing, you can remove all conditions. Your $10k deposit is transferred to the lawyer’s trust account, where will add the remaining $30k for the downpayment. With your $40k downpayment made, once you sign the mortgage documents and cover the legal and closing costs, the lender will forward the remaining 90% in the form of a mortgage registered to your title, and you have officially purchased the property! If you have any questions about the difference between the deposit and the downpayment or any other mortgage terms, please connect anytime. It would be a pleasure to work with you.